
These are a few of my favorite things....
Below are some photos from my incredible holiday weekend trip to Ohrid, Macedonia. Rachel and I visited ruins of a Roman fortress and several 13th century churches. We also spent time soaking up some sun on the lakeshore beaches and exploring souvenir markets.
We took a bus (a nice one) on Saturday morning and arrived in the early afternoon. When we got off the bus, there was a crowd of people standing on the other side of the gate of the bus station, shouting out inquiries as to whether we would like to stay with them. They had postcards and photos and information written in English to try to convince us to choose them! We expected this, and I let Rachel choose, but she chose the lady I would have chosen, so I was glad. :) The lady was about my mom's age and seemed very pleased that we decided to come with her. She led us to a taxi and told us on the way that her son spoke very good English. Rachel speaks some Macedonian, so it wasn't a problem anyway. We ended up only having to pay about $1o each per night, which is a great price!
Lots of locals in Ohrid rent out rooms to travelers and everyone knows about this and it's perfectly fine. The people who rent rooms seem to have a city license posted on their doors with their photo and lots of Macedonian words and the city seal, so there must be something official about it.
I guess the family of this particular house all sleep in the one living area downstairs, because all three of the upstairs bedrooms were rented out. We got a key to the room and a key to the front door. In our room was a double bed, a couch, two tables and a bureau. It opened out onto a balcony with a beautiful view of the city. Towels, cups and toiletries were not provided, of course, but that's OK, because we both thought to bring towels, and we had toiletries and water bottles. No problem! The house was situated on the hillside overlooking the lake. Wow. I wonder if the families who rent rooms depend on that for their whole income, because they have these old houses in prime locations, and of course lots of people want to pay to come stay with them. Hmmm. I'm curious.
Anyway, so the first day, we changed into our swimsuits and walked around looking at the 13th century churches until we found the one we were looking for, which I had seen pictures of online when I googled Macedonia from America. It's a small church with a beach area below, so we visited the church and then went to the beach and sat at a cafe and had a yummy cucumber, tomato, vinegar, olive oil and sheep cheese salad.
As we approached the church, I was telling Rachel that I wished I could find someone in Macedonia who understood French, because then I would feel like I actually knew something that could help me get around, and my brain seems to think that any foreign language can be answered in French anyway, so it would be nice to get to practice. Well! Lo and behold, the caretaker of this particular church doesn't speak English, btu he does speak French! So when he asked Rachel is we understood French, she told him in Macedonian that I do, and all the sudden he starts explaining the church to me in French! Well, my mind had to do a real quick switchover, but I understood most of what he said and was even able to ask some questions. It sounds silly maybe, but that was super exciting for me, since I haven't had to use my French in over four years. I'm glad some of it's still there, and it seems like this experience was another one of those little, but very significant blessings God has been giving me so many of lately.
It's a good thing too, because I plan to spend Christmas in Tours with my friend Aude from college! And I will get to practice French there to my heart's content!
So then we climbed and climbed the little cobblestoned roads up the mountain until we found the ancient gate of the Roman-occupied city and then the ruins of the fortress, which was really cool. From up there, I could see more of the land around the city, and it's no wonder that people have been fighting over this land for thousands of years. Macedonia is a free nation for the first time now. It has always been a conquered land before now.
You can imagine that we were tired after all that climbing and swimming, so we found a restaurant and ate lots of delicious food...trout, omelettes, crepes, bread...just lovely.
The next day, we took an hour and half long boat ride across the lake to a little town called Svete Naum, where there was another church (but this one had peacocks and there was a wedding in progress when we arrived), another beach, a lagoon and a lots of souvenirs for sale. That was lovely too. I especially enjoyed daydreaming all the way across the lake, both ways.
That night, back in Ohrid, we returned to the same touristy market we had visited several times before. At night, everything is lit by torches held by the vendors and there is traditional Macedonian music being played by costumed musicians and it makes everything seem much more appealing and I almost spent way too much money on a beautiful wood carving of the Nativity Scene. I still want it, but I'm glad I didn't rush to an ATM to get enough cash because then I wouldn't have money for food for the rest of the month. :) And anyway, the carving of the Last Supper was much lovelier, so I shouldn't settle for something I like less, just because that particular carving will always be way out of my financial league, and it's not like I need it.
So then we walked along the lake like we had the night before, and talked and talked and I said hello to all the dogs and the swans and we looked at some paintings and wondered why there are no gypsies in Ohrid. There was much festivity in the center of old town, where we were, because it was a holiday weekend. We stood in line for awhile to buy these little doughnuts which are drizzled with powdered sugar and chocolate...kind of like funnel cake, but better. So we took our doughnuts and sat on the ancient stone pier, where lots of people were sitting, and savored the sweetness of the doughnuts and the energy of the evening and the reflections on the water and it was just lovely. I'm so glad to be living in a place where I can make memories like that and I am so glad to have a friend here to share it with. It would be so sad if I had to travel by myself. Nothing is as meaningful if there's no one to share the experience.

Wouldn't you love to see what this fortress looked like when it was in use? But it might have been a little bit scary, so maybe not. There was a big, round enclosure off to the right of this photo and I told Rachel it might have been a torture pit, but she said it might have been a baptismal, but I think it was too deep to have been a baptismal...so I know it's morbid, but I'm pretty sure the Romans were not very nice people.

I paid way too much for this famous Ohrid trout, but it was worth it! It was flavored with lemon, and there weren't many bones! It was served with lovely potatoes and carrots.

These churches are lovely, but after awhile, I'm afraid they all start to look the same.

This is the restaurant where I had the trout. We ate here both nights and sat in silence most of the time, just gazing at the mountains.

This is a lagoon in the nearby tourist town of Svete Naum. We took a boat there!

Hi!

This is where I got in the water to swim! Some people were laughing at me because the stones were slippery and I kept stumbling and giggling because the water was so cold and I couldn't keep my footing! When the water got deep enough, I just started swimming...and the second time I got in, I thought to wear my flip-flops into the water.

Wow. That's what I kept saying about the scenery the whole weekend. I think I would say that every day in Ohrid, even if I were to live there my whole life.